Excerpted from From Le Figaro (English)
Monsanto must pay for French farmer’s pesticide injuries
A French tribunal found Monsanto, the leading producer of agro chemicals, responsible for serious neurological effects suffered by a French farmer after his exposure to poisonous pesticides. Monsanto must pay for all damages suffered by the farmer.
Posted in biodynamic, Bordeaux Food And Wine, Buzzworthy, Event, First Nations Food, French Wines, Local Food And Wine, Local Food And Wine Tastings & Tours, Local Food And Wine TV, localfoodwine, Paige Donner, Vancouver Food And Wine, Vancouver Island
Tagged French farmer wins against Monsanto, Local Food And Wine, Monsanto, pesticide poisoning, Vancouver Food And Wine
“We wanted to put our own unique spin on traditional food and wine pairing concepts” says Chef Natasha Harris.“Clients who book the yacht will be able to show their guests Vancouver from a new perspective, while learning about interesting wine and food combinations using local ingredients. It’s a great opportunity to showcase our city and what we are privileged to have here.” 
Created by Sunset Bay’s ISG accredited Executive Chef Natasha Harris, The Wine Yacht’s interactive group tasting sessions are designed to provide clients with an informative and unique custom tasting event while on board the “Sunset Bay II” private yacht. Each tasting station features premium wine varietals from BC and around the world, paired with small plates inspired by the corresponding wine’s region. Continue reading
Posted in BC Wines, Buzzworthy, Cherie Du Vin, Event, Foodie, French Wines, Gastown, Happy Hour, Local Food And Wine, Local Food And Wine Tastings & Tours, Local Food And Wine TV, localfoodwine, Oceanwise, Oenotourism, Okanagan Wine, Paige Donner, regional wines, Restaurant, Restaurant Etiquette, Vancouver Food And Wine, Vancouver Island, Wine, Winemaker
Tagged BC Wines, Chef Natasha Harris, coal harbor, Local Food And Wine, Local Food and Wine Tastings and Tours, oenotourism, okanagan wines, Paige Donner, sunset bay ISG, The Wine Yacht, Vancouver Food And Wine, wine and food Pairings
Courtesy of Organic Matters, Ireland’s Organic Magazine
BIO-DYNAMIC GARDENINGBio-dynamic gardeners, followers of the principles of Rudolf Steiner, believe that the movements of all theheavenly bodies, moon, planets and stars have an influence on the growth and development of all plants 5A4GDJUACK64 . So the time you chose to sow, plant or even weed your plants will affect their progress. The moon, the stars and the planets all affect the development of our plants. Continue reading
Posted in biodynamic, Buzzworthy, Comox Valley, First Nations Food, Foodie, Local Food And Wine, Local Food And Wine Tastings & Tours, Local Food And Wine TV, localfoodwine, Oenotourism, Okanagan Wine, Paige Donner, regional wines, Vancouver Food And Wine, Vancouver Island, Vegan, Wine
Tagged Biodyanimic, biodynamic farming, Local Food and Wine Tastings and Tours, Local Food And Wine TV, organic farming, Paige Donner, sustainable vineyard management, Vancouver Food And Wine
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by Paige Donner
As wine bars in Paris go, this is both authentic and on the beaten path. For years, when ever you’d search out wine bars and Paris, it is this one that would come up. It is nestled right next to the famous (and super cheap!) Marché d’Aligre.
Which is a good thing. Because after – or before – you buy your fresh cheeses, your ripe fruits, and your roasted chicken, you can buy your wine by the liter and enjoy a glass of it while doing so. And yes, you buy your liter of wine straight from the barrel.
Le Baron Rouge. It’s a bit on the beaten track but every bit worthy of a drop-in. Plus, what better way to start off a Sunday morning but with a glass of good, country, French wine?
Contact Local Food And Wine for our Culinary Tours and Rates.
Posted in Buzzworthy, French Wines, Happy Hour, Local Food And Wine, Local Food And Wine Tastings & Tours, localfoodwine, Oenotourism, Paige Donner, Paris Food And Wine, Provence Wines, Pub, regional wines, Vancouver Food And Wine, Vancouver Island, Wine, Winemaker
Tagged Best Wine Bars Paris, Culinary Tourism Paris, Le Baron Rouge, Local Food And Wine Tasting Tours, localfoodandwine, Marche d'Aligre, Paige Donner, Top Paris Picks, Wine Tasting Tours Paris
By Paige Donner
Read Complete Article on Bordeaux Food And Wine 
Château Smith Haut Lafitte is one of those wineries in Bordeaux that has its own helipad. Likely, it’s one of the only wineries in Bordeaux that has its own helipad, actually. It also has its own weather station and its own cooperage. And, yes, mais oui!, the wine barrels are all made from French Oak.
Château Smith Haut Lafitte’s owners, since 20 years, are Mr. and Mrs. Cathiard, a dynamic “Power Couple” who can count Olympic Team competitive skiing, grocery store and sporting goods retail empires and an international advertising executive career as part of their storied pasts. But that was then and wine is now.
Château Smith Haut Lafitte wines are considered one of the top 20 wines of Bordeaux. That is no small feat. Just look at the company they keep. But having reclaimed the historic Graves AOC Bordeaux Château, which, by 1990 had fallen into disrepair, the Cathiards set about doing things their own way. It worked.
To examine just two facets of their innovative approach, let’s look at the 2009 vintage, both white and red.
Château Smith Haut Lafitte – 2009 Vintage
Fabien Teitgen, the winemaker, and the Cathiards believe in whole grape fermentation. Grapes are not crushed at this winery. To help achieve this, the 2009 vintage saw two revolutions here: one for de-stemming and the other for grape sorting.
Grape Sorting: they refer to it as Optical Sorting and use a Vistalys Optical Sorting machine. This sensitive machine photographs the fruit and sorts it based on color and shape characteristics. A jet of air eliminates all the detritus and unwanted bits such as debris or under ripe fruit.
Destemming: The second revolution is also grace á a “revolutionary” machine. The destemmer vibrates the grapes which releases them from their stems. No splintering of stems results and only whole grapes, then, are released into the fermentation vats. The Château Smith Haut Lafitte winemaking team is able to use “precision and reproducibility” with these machines as well as keep nothing but whole, perfect grapes for their wines.
2009 Reds are: 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc , 1% Petit Verdot, 30% Merlot ”The wines are taking on a lovely fleshiness. They are full and silky.”
2009 Whites are: 90% Sauvignon blanc, 5% Sauvignon gris, 5% Sémillon ”Lovely, ripe, concentrated rich wines just like a fine, sunny day. They have nice acidity that reflects the cool summer nights of 2009.”
Dynamic Soil
While the term “bio-dynamic,” is not used by Fabien Teitgen, Château Smith Haut Lafitte’s winemaker, there are practices on the vineyard reminiscent of bio-dynamism. For instance:
On a number of vineyard plots, we have applied the same, gradual, empirical approach, to vine protection and developed a system based solely on copper and sulphur (in homeopathic doses) combined with nettle, chestnut, and horsetail tea and herbal concoctions.
This risky step has paid off: the vines are beautiful and healthy. – Fabien Teitgen
Teitgen also credits the use of organic compost – horse manure, vine prunings, pomace – on the 67 hectares of Gunzian gravel terroir with revitalizing it and helping maintain the necessary equilibrium between soil and vine. They use an innovative (not standard) cover crop between the rows of vines which helps revitalize the soil’s structure, drainage and dynamics.
So why the helipad? Well, maybe it’s for their Rich & Famous friends who have dropped in at the winery, you know, like Mr. and Mrs. Johnny Depp, Tom Cruise and Cameron Diaz.
Stay at the neighboring Les Sources de Caudalie
33650 Bordeaux – Martillac www.smith-haut-lafitte.com
Posted in AOC, Bordeaux, Bordeaux Food And Wine, Buzzworthy, French Wines, Graves, Local Food And Wine, Local Food And Wine Tastings & Tours, localfoodwine, Oenotourism, Paige Donner, Paris Food And Wine, Provence Wines, regional wines, Vancouver Food And Wine, Vancouver Island
Tagged Bordeaux Food And Wine, chateau smith haut-lafitte, graves AOC, les sources de caudalie, Local Food And Wine, pessac-leognan, Top Picks LFAW, Vancouver Food And Wine
Lauren is the Winemaker at Hillier Creek Estates, Prince Edward County, Ontario www.hilliercreekestates.com
Some of my favourite wine tasting experiences take place outside of the winery. Last week I was able to take a road trip to my old stomping grounds in Niagara, where I was invited to help judge the prestigious Cuvee wine competition.
During the cuvee judging I had to (but wasn’t forced to) spend the entire day tasting some of the best wines in Ontario. We started at 8:30am and ended at 5:30 that evening. A total of 260 wines were entered into the competition. I never thought that tasting wine could be so exhausting! I spit out every taste, which I hated to do, but I wanted to be able to remember the experience and I knew it would be tough, even for me, to drink that much wine in one sitting.
Posted in AOC, BC Wines, Buzzworthy, Charity Benefit, Local Food And Wine, Local Food And Wine Tastings & Tours, localfoodwine, Niagara, Oenotourism, Ontario, Paige Donner, Prince Edward County, regional wines, Restaurant, Vancouver Food And Wine, Vancouver Island, VOC, Winemaker
Tagged Bay of Quinte, Cuvee Wine Competition, Hillier Creek Estates, Lauren Horlock, Local Food And Wine - Niagara, Local Food And Wine - regional wines, Ontario, Peller Estates, Prince Edward County
Posted By Paige Donner
Several of Paris’s Starwood Group Hotels, in addition to independently-owned restaurants and cafes have dedicated their Spring menus to using exceptional, locally Ile-de-France sourced ingredients. Local here is defined as originating no farther than 200 km. outside of Paris. This both supports Ile-de-France regional growers and eliminates much of the negative environmental impact that long-distance transportation of food products requires.
At the Paris restaurants: L’Orénoc duMéridien Étoile, the First at the Westin Paris-Vendôme and the Étoiles at the Sheraton Paris-Charles de Gaulle, you will find these specially crafted “Local” gastronomic menus that are being served in their main dining rooms, for room service and even for conferences and meetings.
In addition, at Le Meurice, the triple-Michelin-starred Chef Yannick Alléno has created a “mythical and savory” menu which he has dubbed « Terroir Parisien® » that he is serving for his lunch time guests. A range of products he has sourced from nearby Ile-de-France villages including mint from la Forêt (52 km).
Similarly the new trendy Lafayette Organic on Grands Boulevards is featuring all organic produce and products from Ile de France. And if you choose to dine at the restaurant, Chez Bruno, you will have the chance to enjoy artisan coldcuts from Michel Ballereau, of Sceaux (14 km), farm-raised chicken from Pouligny à Jouy in Morin (76 km), and fresh cheeses from the 30 Arpents Farm in Favières (41 km). And that’s not all, you will also get to try local honey from beekeeper Rémy Vanbremeersch and Carl Marletti’s artisanale pâtisseries. And when you find yourself in the Denfert Rochereau quarter with an appetite for some local flavor, stop in at Ghislaine Arabian’s restaurant, Les Petites Sorcières, where she is spotlighting the local produce of Claude and Catherine Gallienne from Neuville (67 km), and the fresh-baked breads of Parisien Jean-Luc Poujauran.
Posted in AOC, BC Wines, Buzzworthy, Charity Benefit, Event, Foodie, French Wines, Happy Hour, Local Food And Wine, localfoodwine, Pub, regional wines, Restaurant, Restaurant Etiquette, Seafood, Spicy, Vancouver Food And Wine, Vancouver Island, VOC, Wine, Winemaker
Tagged Ile de France, Le Meurice, Local Food And Wine, Local Food and wine Paris, local food and wine tastings & tours, Paige Donner, Parisien Terroir, Starwood Hotels, The First, Yannick Alleno
VINESTARS OF WINE CELEBRATE 33 YEARS AT PLAYHOUSE WINE FESTIVAL
Meet the industry’s top international trendsetters and principal vintners
Vancouver, BC, February 21, 2011 – To mark its 33rd year the 2011 Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival will welcome some of the most progressive winemakers and winery leaders in the world. From pouring at the International Festival Tasting to hosting events, these vin-pioneers are set to satisfy curious neophytes and seasoned oenophiles with personal, one-on-one meet and greets. Appearances from the following wine world celebrities are just a few reasons to partake in the weeklong festivities.
DIVA(S) AT THE MET
What’s it like to be a woman in the grape trade? Vancouver-based sommelier and Playhouse Wine Festival host Daenna Van Mulligen (alias WineDiva), who has a decade-long list of wine tasting critiques in her purse, will be introducing an international group of female winemakers, proprietors and industry headmistresses at Diva(s) at the Met. Speakers include Ann Sperling, of British Columbia’s 86-year-old Sperling Vineyards; Mary Ann Yewen, Director of Freixenet, one of the top selling sparkling wines on the planet; and Mariola Varona, the North American Export Director of the multi-award-winning Bodegas Martín Códax, specializing in the Albariño grape. Among other dignitaries, these wine queens will dish on the coveted wines they represent, as well as the stories behind their successes as principal businesswomen in a traditionally male dominated industry.
With direction from the biggest wine diva of them all, attendees will also enjoy a selection of small bites prepared by Diva at the Met’s Executive Chef Quang Dang. Join this inspirational group of women on Tuesday, March 29th at the Metropolitan Hotel Vancouver, 645 Howe Street, from 6:00 – 8:00 pm.
THE LEGACY OF A SPANISH VISIONARY: MIGUEL TORRES
When it comes to describing Spanish wine icon Miguel A. Torres, “legendary” is an understatement. Arguably one of the most important families in the history of Spanish wine, Legacy of a Visionary is thepièce de résistance of Festival week. Miguel is the fourth generation of Torres to preside over the acclaimed and centuries-old Miguel Torres Winery, a published author several times over, Decantermagazine’s 2002 Man of the Year and Wine International magazine’s 2005 Personality of the Year.
Moderator Anthony Gismondi will be discussing Miguel’s influence and the Penedès region winery, whileguests are guided through a rare and diverse selection of wines from the Torres wineries in Spain, Chile and California.
One of the most anticipated events of the Festival, Legacy of a Visionary will held on Thursday, March 31stat VCC East, meeting room 8, 999 Canada Place Way, from 5:00 – 6:45 pm.
GOOD GRACIOUS GRENACHE!
Join house wine’s Michelle Bouffard and Michaela Morris as they explore the grandeur and the many guises of Grenache. This lesser known, but surprisingly common grape, was baptized as “Garnacha” by the Spaniards and has ties to cheerful rosés, fuller-bodied reds (think: Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Priorato and Rioja), and lusciously sweet elixirs. Prepare to taste some of its finest expressions hailing from Spain, France, California and Australia. Good Gracious Grenache! will be held on Saturday, April 2nd, at VCC East, meeting room 1, 999 Canada Place Way, from 3:00 – 4:45 pm.
MEET YOUR MATCH
Finding the perfect wine is like finding the perfect partner, it takes the right introduction at the right time. Oeno-enthusiasts are promised that proverbial “spark” at this year’s much anticipated, Meet Your Matchevent. Chaperoned by master wine matchmaker and acclaimed wine writer, Anthony Gismondi, sippers will be invited to get up close and personal with the vinestars of the wine biz. These fascinating international winery principals are set to lead tasters first-hand through the intimate secrets of some of the world’s most outstanding wines and wineries. Presented in a format that allows small groups direct and personal interaction with Festival celebrities, each group will have about 6 minutes to taste the producer’s wine, hear their story and ask questions.
Included in the VIP list is proprietor Telmo Rodriguez, one of Spain’s most celebrated and animated winemakers. Telmo sought out forgotten vineyards for the purpose of recovery and cultivation of abandoned indigenous vines to rave reviews, consistently scoring 90+ points. Alvaro Palacios, widely considered to be propelling Spanish wine into the modern era, acquired his first vineyard, Finca Dofí, in 1990, and will be pouring cellared wines for Meet Your Match guests.
Known for his outstanding Syrahs and Cabernets, South African winemaker Marc Kent of Boekenhoutskloof will be returning to the Festival with his much lauded The Journeyman Franschhoek 2005. David Guimaraens, a sixth generation to Portugal’s Taylor Fladgate and Fonseca, is considered something of a winemaking genius at the international table. In December 2010, David released one of the world’s oldest ports, SCION, to a limited group of collectors and connoisseurs, which at 155 years old, may be one of the only wines to have survived the pre-Phylloxera era.
If these wine experts haven’t already satiated your taste buds, the event will also see Stefano Leone, International Export Director of Antinori; Louis Moreau, owner and winemaker of France’s Domaine Louis Moreau; British Colombia’s own Anthony von Mandl of Mission Hill Family Estate; Cristiano Van Zeller of Portugal’s Quinta do Vale Dona Maria; Californian winemaker Rick Sayre of Rodney Strong; Rupert Symington, Joint Managing Director of Symington Graham’s Port; and David Paterson of BC’s Tantalus Vineyards. Meet Your Match is scheduled on Saturday, April 2nd at VCC East, meeting room 8, 999 Canada Place Way, from 5:00 – 6:45 pm.
ABOUT THE PLAYHOUSE WINE FESTIVAL
The Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival, Canada’s premier wine show, runs from March 28thto April 3rd, 2011. The Playhouse Wine Festival is one of the biggest and oldest wine festival events in the world. In 2011, the theme region will be Spain and the global focus, Fortified Wine. The Festival features a week of special events including the Bacchanalia Gala Dinner + Auction, wine seminars, wine minglers, winery dinners, and lunches and brunches at fine restaurants and hotels. The Playhouse Wine Festival is produced by the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival Society, which has three mandates: provide an informative, educational and entertaining wine experience for public and trade; be a premier marketing opportunity for the wine industry and Festival partners; and raise funds for the Vancouver Playhouse Theatre Company. Since its inception in 1979, the Festival has raised over $7.2 million to enable Western Canada’s leading theatre company to mount 223 productions and develop extensive community outreach and educational programs.
The Shore Club generously presents the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival.
Posted in AOC, APC, BC Wines, Buzzworthy, Charity Benefit, Comox Valley, Event, First Nations Food, Foodie, Gastown, Happy Hour, Kitsilano, Local Food And Wine, localfoodwine, Okanagan Wine, Provence Wines, Pub, regional wines, Restaurant, Seafood, Spicy, Spirits, Vancouver Food And Wine, Vancouver Island, Victoria, VOC, West End, Wine, Winemaker, Yale Town
Tagged Ann Sperling, Anthony Gismondi, Daenna van mulligen, grenache, Local Food And Wine, Local Food and Wine Tastings and Tours, Mariola Varona, Mary Ann Yewen, miguel a torres, Paige Donner, Shore Club, Vancouver Food And Wine, Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival, wine diva, wines of Spain
Read More on Local Food And Wine
(23-24 January 2011) Lyon, France Rasmus KOFOED, representing DENMARK, has won the Bocuse d’Or 2011 trophy and €20,000 in prize money.
Second place, Bocuse d’Argent : Tommy MYLLYMÄKI, representing SWEDEN, won the Silver Bocuse trophy 2011 and €15,000 in prize money.
Third place, Bocuse de Bronze : Gunnar HVARNES, representing NORWAY, won the Bronze Bocuse trophy 2011 and €10,000 in prize money.
Several special prizes were also awarded: - Prize for the ‘Best Commis’, awarded by the Bocuse d’Or Winner’s Academy: Kinari KOYAMA, Commis to Tatsuo NAKASU, JAPAN - Special ‘Fish’ prize: Franck GIOVANNINI, SWITZERLAND - Special ‘Meat’ prize: Jérôme JAEGLE, FRANCE - Prize for the best promotional campaign: GUATEMALA - Prize for the best Poster, as selected by visitors via the internet website:
SPAIN As part of the Sirha 2011 trade exhibition, performing in dedicated contest kitchens facing the public at the heart of the brand new Paul Bocuse hall, 24 chefs from all regions of the planet took up a major challenge: that of preparing within 5.35 hours, during an extraordinary show, two perfect dishes using the official products of the Bocuse d’Or 2011: Scottish lamb for the meat dish and Monkfish, Crab and Scottish Langoustine for the fish dish.
All Photos Courtesy of Francis Mainard/ Bocuse d’Or/ Sirha.
To judge the 24 candidates, the jury was composed of 24 influential chefs who are emblematic of each country represented, under the aegis of 3 exceptional presidents: Paul Bocuse, President Founder, Yannick Alleno, Honorary President (3* Chef at the Meurice, Silver Bocuse 1999) and Geir Skeie, President of the International Jury (Bocuse d’Or 2009)
Posted in AOC, APC, Buzzworthy, chocolate, Event, Foodie, French Wines, Local Food And Wine, localfoodwine, Meat Lovers, Oceanwise, Provence Wines, Pub, Restaurant, Restaurant Etiquette, Seafood, Spicy, Vancouver Food And Wine, Vancouver Island, VOC, Wine, Winemaker
Tagged Bocuse d'Or, Geir Skeie, gunnar hvarnes, Kinari Koyama, Local Food And Wine, Local Food and Wine Tastings and Tours, Meurice, Paige Donner, Paul Bocuse, rasmus kofoed, Tatsuo Nakasu, Tommy Myllymaki, Yannick Alleno
Eco-labels continue to gain popularity in the food industry, however are they going far enough to meet consumer demand for ethical & ecological products? The third edition of the Sustainable Foods Summit explores new horizons in sustainability for eco-labels. How do organic, fair trade and other eco-labels contribute to sustainability? What role should they play in a food industry that is increasingly looking at the triple bottom line? The summit aims to debate and discuss such issues in a high-level forum.
The North American edition of the Sustainable Foods Summit will take place in San Francisco on 18-19th January 2011. Key topics on the summit agenda include pioneering sustainability initiatives, ethical sourcing, sustainable ingredients, organic plus strategies and marketing & distribution innovations. To download the conference programme, please click here
Like previous summits organized by Organic Monitor, the summit will bring together key stake-holders in the food industry that include food manufacturers, ingredient & raw material suppliers, retailers & distributors, industry organizations & certification agencies, researchers & academics, investors, etc.
Posted in Buzzworthy, Charity Benefit, Event, First Nations Food, Foodie, Local Food And Wine, localfoodwine, Oceanwise, Okanagan Wine, Pub, regional wines, Seafood, Spicy, Spirits, Vancouver Food And Wine, Vancouver Island, Vegan, Victoria, VOC, West End, Wine, Winemaker, Yale Town
Tagged 2011 sustainable foods summit, Culinary Tourism, demeter, Eco Labels, European sustainable foods summit, Local Food And Wine, local food and wine san francisco, local food and wine tastings & tours, local foods, organic monitor, san francisco food and wine, sustainable foods summit san francisco
The cutest, funnest, hippest cooking class in Paris is not easy to get into. Not easy at all. Which runs directly contrary to the vibe once you’re in. Amongst a citizenry that takes its food seriously (UNESCO! cultural heritage designation!) cooking classes among youngfolk have become the thing to do.
It’s almost replaced hanging out at cafes and smoking cigarettes all afternoon discussing the tortures of romantic love as the thing to do when you’re young, single (or in a couple) and looking for some social activity. Well, scratch that. It has replaced it.
There are increasingly more chef “ateliers” springing up and those that have always been around and are now being rediscovered. What the French have found is that a cooking class is 1) Fun 2) a great ice-breaker 3) a level playing field 4) a learning experience and 5) a great way to enjoy a meal or a dessert.
The Super Hip “concept” store, Colette, which is located at 213 rue St. Honoré is the location for Cooklette. The store has such a following that the cutest boys in Paris hang outside of it 5 minutes after closing pleading with the bouncer/doorman to let them in for just another 10 minutes so they can find a last-minute gift for their girlfriends. The 7 ft. tall bouncers invariably say, “No.” Explanation is that it happens every day. But that’s what Colette has become: The trendy Parisian club of concept stores.
Downstairs, in the Water Bar, on the first Friday evening each month, they stage “Cooklette” which is their free cooking class. How do you get in? You have to be one of the first twelve to sign up on their website as soon as they announce the date in their newsletter.
January’s class was devoted to making Galette des Rois. These are the flat round tarts filled with almond paste that the French eat for the New Year. Custom has it that the cake must be cut into as many parts as there are people present, plus one.
It is also always baked with a tiny feve which is a small porcelain figurine or button that designates the recipient the “King” or “Queen”for a day. Another custom, which Cooklette faithfully practiced, is that the youngest in the group sits under the table and chooses who gets the pieces of cake and when. This is so that the person who cooked the cake can’t choose who gets the feve. Égalité, Fraternité, Degousté!
The La Galette Colette class was taught by Catherine Kluger who is famous among Parisian gourmands for her Tartes. Her Tartes Klugerare at 6 rue du Forez in the 3rd. She does sweet and savory tartes: Zuchini, Tomato, Mozzarella; Ham, Parmesan, a touch of Bechamel with some Bacon Crispies on top. Sweet tartes include: Tarte au Cafe’ with grains of coffee and chocolate; Tarte a La Mousse au Chocolat Noire; Rhubarb and Milky Rice.
A very self-effacing chef, Catherine approached the class as if she were teaching a group of friends in her own kitchen. She used her own recipe which rendered a simple but flavorful frangipane galette that was moist, flavorful and flaky.
According to Anais Sidali, Cooklette is just something that Colette does because they want to offer a fun activity for their customers to participate in. The downstairs Water Bar is an ideal location. They just pushed some of the center tables together and Voila’ we had a cooking atelier. Diners were welcomed to stay and observe at the booths that hug the walls of the 20-cover or so blue and white simple diner. A Marseille-based blogger, So Food So Good, did just that
To my left was Stephane Bureaux, the author of Design Culinaire, a book full of fantastic photos and food ideas. Colette sells the book and still has a few copies left. You can’t miss it: It has a carrot and a fork on its cover. As far as culinary concepts go, Design Culinaire is to food what haute couture is to fashion.
To my right were a couple of young ladies who had, after three attempts, finally gotten lucky enough to get the reservation for the course. According to Sidali, they don’t take reservations months in advance, just the first ones to sign up that month get to come. It attracts the most passionate foodistas: The girls were raving about their intended brunch that Sunday at Chloe S.
Our advice: Subscribe to the Colette Newsletter; Sign up for Cooklette the second it’s announced; Get Ready for some Culinary Fun ‘cuz it’s a nice cooking class if you can get it.
Posted in Buzzworthy, Charity Benefit, chocolate, Event, Foodie, French Wines, Holiday Treats, Local Food And Wine, localfoodwine, Okanagan Wine, Provence Wines, regional wines, Restaurant, Restaurant Etiquette, Spicy, Spirits, Vancouver Food And Wine, Vancouver Island, Victoria, VOC, Winemaker
Tagged 213 rue st. honore, colette, concept store, Cooking Classes Paris, Cooklette, Culinary Tourism, design culinaire, feve, galette des rois, Local Food And Wine, Local Food and wine Paris, Paige Donner, Paris Best Cooking classes, paris food and wine, tartes kluger, Vancouver Food And Wine
Translated, “La Garde Robe,” is a closet. Which is about the size of this snuggly little wine bar just off the rue de Rivoli, a hop and a skip from the Louvre.
Wandering in late one night after a meal with friends, there were just enough stools at the bar to accommodate the few of us. The high tables and the low tables towards the back, were all full of revelers who had the appearance of having spent the entire night at the comfy little “closet” swilling vins naturel and chomping on made-to-order plates of cheeses and thinly sliced meats.
La Garde Robe ha a loyal following and locals will name it as one of Paris’s top wine bars. You can get a good glass of red for anywhere between Euro 3,50 and 7,00. Come with a sense of adventure, ready to try something you haven’t before. It might be within a recognizable apellation, but likely you’ll find producers you haven’t yet tried.
Or just come for the ambiance. It’s one of those exquisite central Paris hole-in-the-wall wine bars that you’d never know was there until you purposefully set out to look for it. And on these cold winter evenings when a lighted window friendly beckons you to come in from the cold, well, if there’s still room for you to squeeze inside, you’ll be glad you did especially once you’ve tried a few things you may not have before. This is Paris, after all! You can also buy your bottles to go.
La Garde Robe, 41, rue de l’Arbre-Sec (rue de Rivoli) 75001
Posted in Buzzworthy, Event, Foodie, French Wines, Happy Hour, Holiday Treats, Local Food And Wine, localfoodwine, Provence Wines, Pub, regional wines, Restaurant, Restaurant Etiquette, Vancouver Food And Wine, Vancouver Island, Victoria, VOC, Wine, Winemaker
Tagged 75001 Paris Wine Bar, Culinary Tourism, La Garde Robe, Local Food And Wine, Local Food and wine Paris, Local Food And Wine Recommends, Local Food And Wine Tours & Tastings, Paige Donner, Paris Best Wine Bars, paris food and wine, Paris Top Ten, vins naturel
By Sallie Robbins-Druian
GETTING STARTED
Let’s face it. Wine is complicated. And French wine is a swirling maelstrom of history, government control, regional divides, family in-fighting, and basic chemistry. But must we know every little detail to understand what we like when we drink it?
I want to demystify French wine. I want to simplify French wine. I want to drink French wine without reading volumes and memorizing details. I want to know about the people and families who make the wine, and how they feel about their commitment and drive for perfection. But honestly, I simply want to breath-in the aroma, take-in the first sip, savor the wine, linger on the mid-palette and head for the finish line with a smile of satisfaction.
It’s like searching for the Holy Grail. Except we are searching for magic in a bottle. And it can be elusive. But isn’t the thrill of the hunt in the searching? How do we begin such a journey? Must we climb to the top of a French mountain for enlightenment? Should we read a book or check wikipedia for each regional grape variety? Or might we jump right into the deep end and go for it! I say jump, but with some thought as to how to organize and accomplish this search.
Make it easy on yourself and create your own Tour de France. Pick a wine region such as the Loire Valley or Burgundy. Or select a varietal such as Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Noir. Then choose one wine each from three different producers for comparison. Congratulations! You have just created a wine tasting. You have now entered The Wild and Wonderful World of Wine Subjectivity. Pat yourself on the back. You have already graduated without taking the exams.
It doesn’t matter what wine critic Robert Parker says or the local wine columnist professes. It only matters what YOU think when you inhale the aroma and linger over the first tastes. And remember, Mr. Parker was a beer drinker until he met a pretty French girl he wanted to impress. He got the girl and he built a career from practice, practice, practice.
TASTING PEP TALK Now it is your turn. First check the color and clarity, and then the aroma. When you take the first sip of any wine, take a mouthful and acclimate your mouth. On your second and third sips, pull the wine slowly over your tongue to get some aeration.
It’s like inhaling through your mouth with pursed lips. Feel how the wine settles on your tongue midway, giving you an impression of body and texture. Sense the depth of flavor and how it finishes. Did it drop off like a stone? Did it linger on your tongue then quietly disappear? Or did the flavor burst like a ripe peach spreading multiple layers of liquid goodness!
It’s your call. Because wine is subjective. And it is all about you. First, is it tasty? Do you like it? Then this wine is a winner. And so are you. Then move on to wine number two with wine notes in hand from wine number one. Look forward to comparing the two and challenging yourself. What are the differences, the pluses and minuses? Think of the strengths in flavor. Does it interest you? Are you now curious about wine number three?
Then let ‘er rip and move forward! With regard to “Wine Notes”, try to create your own vocabulary in describing the wines you taste. You’ve heard or read the pros pronounce the ultimate descriptives: asphalt, barnyard, grass, leather, tobacco, licorice et cetera. It’s a world of Jelly Belly flavors out there but it means nothing unless you discover the descriptive word yourself.
Besides attending trade tastings, we do private events and tasting classes on a regular basis, and sometimes it is even difficult for us to find the right descriptive word. The secret is to not try too hard. Keep an open mind and let the aroma and taste lead you. Sometimes it takes only one inhalation and sometimes it takes more little sniffs and multiple sips. Take your time and go slowly. Occasionally the aroma will be contrary to the taste, as I recently discovered with a Cotes du Luberon (Rhone Valley) I had in Paris this August. I will now add “nail polish” to my wine vocabulary. OK, lets be chic and use the French name “varnis”. I had no chance to think about it, because it hit me in the nose before I could open my mouth. The thought of tasting it was off-putting, but I lifted my glass and sipped like a sparrow.
Pure amazement and happiness danced in my mouth. The alcohol-prominent nose settled-down and the wine was enjoyed as we continued with our meal. Now let’s take it up a notch. Let’s talk about food. Let us think about food. Give yourself a food challenge and think about what foods will go with these wines you have just tasted. It’s a creative opportunity. It’s only a matter of taste. Your taste. You will not be judged by The Napoleonic Court of Food & Wine. The ball is in your court. Use your own good sense. Think of contrasts.
VARIATIONS ON A THEME: SAUVIGNON BLANC
Take Sauvignon Blanc as an example. Think about the minerality, what it does to your mouth, the clean crispness and the contrast potential. Opposites do attract. Perhaps a creamy seafood pasta with prawns or bay shrimp? With perhaps a small side of dressed baby greens with a splash of EVOO and a grind of sea salt. Or Patron peppers, sauteed in EVOO with a touch if sea salt. Keep it simple as you go. Don’t complicate your attempt in pairing a wine with food. Trust your instincts and use your imagination. Practice, practice, practice and begin your pairings conservatively, layering as you gain confidence.
However, the first order of business is to concentrate on tasting the wine and it’s flavors. For those of you who seek the perfect cocktail wines, ask yourself if this wine, this fresh and zippy Sauvignon Blanc that you have just sampled, stand-alone. From your third sip you will know for absolute sure and even perhaps from the first mouthful. But always give French wine a chance for adjustment when tasting. It’s more layered and complex by nature and design. And remember, your body chemistry can change your first impressions of any wine.
Did you brush your teeth just before tasting? Did you have a bad day at the gym? Did you have to fight the boss or traffic before arriving home? If so, then try to chill and take a break. Give yourself a small positive distraction, and relax for a few moments with a few deep breaths. Stress and wine are not amiable companions, and the aroma and taste can be affected or even soured, giving a false impression of the wine.
TASTING FOR REAL
So enough of this theoretical chit-chat and let’s get on to a real-time practice run with three of the same French varietals from three different producers. But let’s add a twist to make it more interesting. We will pick two very different Sauvignon Blancs from the region of the Loire Valley, but add a Sauvignon Blanc blend from Bordeaux as the third selection.
We are including the varietal, but adding an unusual use of the grape from another region. You can change-up the rules if you keep the varietals a common denominator. Anyway, it’s your tasting and you have thrown an interesting curve. Note: Always taste in the order of least complexity to the most, in order to not overwhelm your taste buds. If you aren’t familiar with the wines or French wines for that matter, always ask your wine merchant or search online for flavor profiles and recommendations.
NUMBER ONE is a 100% Sauvignon Blanc 2009 TOURAINE VAL DE LOIRE SAUVIGNON from the biodynamically farmed eastern Loire Valley vineyards of highly respected producer Francois Chidaine. We will get to the subject of biodynamics later. Let’s first pop the cork and pour. What is the first impression from the color and aroma? What are the qualities positive and negative?
Can you pick-up the earthiness and acidity in the nose? After you have taken your first mouthful and subsequent sips, can you sense the minerality and long refreshing finish? Is the body heavy with herbaceous or grassy undertones or is it clean and crisp, reminding you that this could be a perfect match for goat cheese or even oysters. What would pan-sauteed and salted almonds do to enhance these flavors?
Your mind races to find creative ways to pair this wine with food. Congratulations! You have opened the door to what good wine is all about! And one, that won’t break the bank at $17. Please note: I cannot improve on the information regarding Francois Chidaine and his biodynamic farming provided by the importer Michael Sullivan at www.beauneimports.com. Michael also lists on his website, retail sources where you can purchase these wines in the San Francisco Bay Area and beyond. All three Sauvignon Blancs in this discussion are his imports.
Moving on to NUMBER TWO, a 100% Sauvignon Blanc 2008 DOMAINE PELLE MENETOU-SALON BLANC MOROGUES from the small appellation of revered winemaker, Henri Pelle, located slightly south of Sancerre in the Loire Valley. He is known for the exceptional quality of his vineyards chalky clay soil. You can refer to the Beaune Imports website for further details on the “Kimmeridgian” soil and production notes. But let’s get on with what we are here for. Tasting! Continue with the same glass, simply swirl with a little of the new wine and toss. Never rinse your wine glass with water because it will dilute the next pour.
This Sauvignon Blanc is a special one. Pull the cork and pour. Then take in the aroma in a deep breath. Pull from your vocabulary of descriptive words and apply. Or think of a new one. Do you detect mineral and lemon? Is it juicy or dry? Or do you pick-up a scent of honey. Now it’s time for the unveiling.
Take a slow deep sip. Then take another sip or two. Think about the strong and long fruit-forward mid-palette taste and the level of acidity. Do they work in harmony? Does this wine not have the most amazing balance? Now can you understand why soil can make the difference between a good wine a great wine. This is refined, sophisticated and perfectly balanced. It zings!
And it has great finesse. It’s potential for food pairing is exciting to consider. Michael Sullivan notes that it is crisp, yet rich with exotic fruit flavors. Is that what you think? This could be a Caesar salad wine. This could be a creamy seafood pasta wine. Or a perfect choice for a creamy lemon-drizzled, avocado-shrimp cocktail with cilantro. And as I discovered, it is a hand-made sea salt potato chip kind of wine. The Menetou-Salon elevates the simple chip to a whole new level as it plays off the oil and sea salt.
This is a major “wow” factor that shows how good wine can take any humble food and transform it. But consider this also as a stand-alone wine that allows you to take in the sheer perfection from aroma to finish, and follow the layers of complexity. It is simply one of the finest Sancerres ever made, and is a bargain at $25.
We are close to the finish with NUMBER THREE, which is a blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc with 20% Semillon and 10% Muscadelle grapes. This is a 2008 CHATEAU SAINTE-MARIE ENTRE-DEUX-MERS from the region of Bordeaux. This is a Grand Vin de Bordeaux (a great wine from Bordeaux with no specific meaning) made from “Vieilles Vignes” (old vines). ”Saint-Marie” refers to the vintner’s family residence that formerly was a nunnery. ”Entre-Deux-Mers” translates to “the land between two bodies of water”, which refers to the Garonne and the Dordogne rivers which border the hilly hand-picked vineyards of over-achievers and organic/biodynamic wine producers, Gilles and Stephane Dupuch. Learn more about them and their production techniques on the Beaune Imports website.
Note that Semillon (also the grape of Sauternes) is a rich honeyed blending grape that shines with Sauvignon Blanc. Muscadelle is a spicy grape variety that is blended in white Bordeaux in very small doses to balance and enhance the fruit. All this discussion has made me ready to get tasting. Get that cork out and pour.
Check the color and get your nose into a glass and take a slow, deep breath. Does the aroma strike you as something similar or different from the other two wines? You know by now that this is the most complex Sauvignon Blanc of our line-up. You know that the blending grapes have to make a difference in the basic flavor profile. Are you curious? Then take a big sip and let it saturate your mouth. Is it crisp with a complex and refined minerality? No?
Then please take another sip. Is there a clear fruit- forward flavor from the mid-palette to the finish? Note the depth of flavor. It’s like biting into a bursting ripe grape infused with honey. The blend of the Semillon and Muscadelle do not intimidate the Sauvignon Blanc.
They enhance it. This is another “stand-alone” wine. In fact, it is a great cocktail wine for the price of $20. And a wine that yet inspires interesting food pairings. I find that this works perfectly with a crispy chicken liver salad on a bed of greens, grilled or pan-fried sardines, or any savory food that has a bit of acidity. It is bold and perhaps deeper in flavors than the other two wines. This Sauvignon Blanc blend is layered with complexity, crisp acidity, flavors on many levels, and can take on any food pairing challenge.
FINAL THOUGHTS So now you have experienced three unique Sauvignon Blancs. Did it meet your expectations? Did it surprise you? Did it show you differences, similarities or even possibilities from the aromas to the mouthfuls? Did the value of the wine surpass the price? I am betting it did. If you are happy with the results, then now is the time to plan your next tasting into another region of France. For myself, I will look next to the reds of the Rhone Valley and find three interesting wines in common to compare.
I have purposefully avoided lengthy paragraphs about history, production, climate and soil. I believe you can get a great sense of history by TASTING the wines of France. You will continue to gain an appreciation for any good wine, by the goodness of the grapes and the inspired efforts of the winemakers. Still, we should be reminded that if it was not for the Phoenicians, the Greeks and the Romans, there would be no French wine, let alone the wines of California.
You have now earned the right to the use of the French word “terroir”. I paraphrase the classic definition offered by Bruno Prats, former owner of Chateau Cos d’Estournel in Bordeaux. Terroir is the combination of the climate, soil and landscape that forms the character of a vineyard and its wines. And when it is great, it is magic in a bottle. Remember lastly, it is no accident that wines go well with food.
Winemakers think first of their own tables and practice, practice, practice. The best advice I ever heard to accomplish the perfect match with food, is always try to think of the wine as a secondary “sauce” for the dish. Amen and pass the wine.
SALLIE ROBBINS-DRUIAN Sallie Robbins-Druian along with her husband Jay Druian, are the owners of The French Cellar in Los Gatos. They sell regional wines and objects from France.
Posted in BC Wines, Buzzworthy, Comox Valley, Event, Foodie, French Wines, Local Food And Wine, localfoodwine, Provence Wines, regional wines, Restaurant, Restaurant Etiquette, Spirits, Vancouver Food And Wine, Vancouver Island, VOC, Wine, Winemaker
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